Unearthing PNW Craftsman: Beyond the Guidebook Facades

The Pacific Northwest, with its abundance of towering timber and a pioneering spirit, didn't just adopt the Arts and Crafts movement; it *ingested* it, transforming it into something uniquely rugged, yet sophisticated—the Pacific Northwest Craftsman. This wasn't merely a decorative style; it was a philosophy, a rebellion against industrial over-ornamentation, championing honest materials, local resources, and impeccable hand craftsmanship. For any serious student or admirer of American architecture, understanding this regional adaptation is crucial. What makes these homes so compelling isn't just their beauty, but the stories etched into their exposed beams and shingled walls, tales of visionary architects, industrious lumbermen, and a landscape that dictated design. Having crisscrossed this country to stand before countless historic structures, I can tell you that the true insight into a region's architectural soul often lies not in the grand, publicly accessible monuments, but in the residential gems that have withstood the test of time, even if they're now privately held. Our journey into the heart of PNW Craftsman begins with a structure that, paradoxically, no longer exists in its original form, yet looms large in the style's narrative.

What Do We Learn from a Demolished Icon? The Hoo-Hoo House's Ghostly Legacy

Consider the Hoo-Hoo House, erected in 1909 for Seattle's Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition. If you're hoping to tour this seminal example of Pacific Northwest Craftsman, prepare for disappointment: the original structure, a marvel of regional timber construction, was torn down in 1959. This isn't just a historical footnote; it’s a stark reminder of how vulnerable architectural heritage can be, even significant examples. Originally designed by the prolific Ellsworth Storey as a lumbermen's clubhouse, it was a showcase for the region's prime product: wood. Douglas fir dominated the structural elements and the massive clubroom paneling, while redwood lined the gentlemen's room, and cedar shingles completed the exterior. Its defining interior feature was a truly gargantuan clubroom fireplace, an astonishing 10 feet across and six-and-a-half feet deep, built from local stone and timber, finished in Douglas fir stained forest green and brown. This wasn't just a hearth; it was the gravitational center of a fraternal space, a statement piece of regional pride. While the original building is gone, pieces of it—architectural components—were salvaged and integrated into the *new* University of Washington Club building that replaced it. So, while you can't walk through the original, you can still visit the UW Club on campus, particularly the Faculty Club area, and try to discern the preserved fragments. It’s a bit like an archaeological dig, seeking meaning in remnants, but it underscores the sheer ambition of Storey's original vision. Imagine that fireplace, roaring, in a room filled with the scent of fresh timber and cigar smoke – that’s the spirit you’re trying to connect with.

Ellsworth Storey's Small Wonders: The Enduring Charm of his Lake Washington Cottages

Venturing southeast of downtown Seattle, along the picturesque shores of Lake Washington Boulevard, you'll encounter a series of remarkable, yet often overlooked, structures: the Ellsworth Storey Cottages. Built between 1910 and 1915, this collection of twelve cottages (eleven of which still stand) offers a compelling counterpoint to the Hoo-Hoo House's grand scale. Here, Storey honed his vision for modest, yet exquisitely detailed, living spaces. The exterior cladding of native cedar shingles and local fir, often with thick exposed timber framing, speaks volumes about the region's connection to its natural resources. Cedar shakes, a quintessential Northwest roofing material, complete the picture, grounding these homes firmly in their landscape. What truly sets these cottages apart, however, is their interior ingenuity. Storey didn't just build small; he built smart. He integrated ornately designed built-in details from local lumber, including beamed ceilings and meticulous period woodwork. More importantly, he pioneered flexible, open-plan layouts, a surprisingly modern approach designed to maximize the perceived spaciousness within their modest footprints. Many still retain their original claw-foot bathtubs, a charming nod to the era's domestic aesthetics. While these eleven cottages remain privately owned rental properties, still managed by Storey family descendants and designated Seattle Landmarks, they are perfectly visible from the street. A slow drive or a leisurely stroll along Lake Washington Boulevard offers a unique chance to appreciate their individual character and collective impact. Don't expect a formal tour, but do expect to be captivated by how much architectural substance can be packed into a compact footprint. They challenge the notion that "Craftsman" must always mean "sprawling."

Portland's Craftsman Legacy: The Gilliland House and the Power of Adaptation

Crossing into Oregon, the Lewis T. Gilliland House, completed in 1910 in Portland, presents another fascinating facet of Pacific Northwest Craftsman. This isn't solely the vision of a local architect; it embodies the broader influence of the Arts and Crafts movement's national reach. Architect Ellis F. Lawrence, known for his work in the region, drew directly from Gustav Stickley's widely published plans, demonstrating how national ideals were translated and localized. The exterior, clad in shingles using local Pacific Northwest cedar and fir, firmly grounds it in its environment, yet its underlying form echoes the principles disseminated from the East Coast. However, the interior truly commands attention. A soaring great room, a hallmark of the Arts and Crafts ideal, is majestically anchored by a massive, rock-faced stone fireplace. This isn't just a functional element; it's the architectural centerpiece, drawing the eye upwards to an exposed beam ceiling that emphasizes honest construction. The house holds National Register of Historic Places status, a testament to its significance. While primarily a private residence, it has an intriguing past, having served institutional purposes (including a nursing home) before undergoing a sensitive restoration in the 1990s and 2000s. This history highlights the resilience of good design and the dedication required to bring a landmark back from the brink. Keep an eye out for Architectural Heritage Center tours in Portland; they occasionally feature this residence, offering a rare glimpse inside.

Beyond the Shared Wall: Unpacking the Brehm Brothers Houses' Individuality

Back in Seattle, Ellsworth Storey once again makes an appearance with the Brehm Brothers Houses, built in 1909. These paired residences at 219-221 36th Avenue E in the Madrona Park neighborhood are more than just two houses side-by-side; they represent Storey’s innovative approach to urban residential design. Clad in native Northwest stained wood shingles, with clinker brick and river stone anchoring their porch supports and chimneys, and crisp white window frames, they possess a distinct regional aesthetic. The use of clinker brick, an imperfect, often vitrified brick, was a popular Craftsman element, valuing irregularity and texture over uniformity. What makes these houses particularly compelling is their interior arrangement. Storey, in his characteristic fashion, ensured that even with a shared wall, each house maintained a distinctive entry sequence and individual character. One of the homes, in particular, retains extensively preserved original architectural detailing, providing a vivid demonstration of the Arts and Crafts influence in its purest form. Designated as a Seattle Landmark in 1979, these private residences are a delight to observe from the street. A quiet morning walk through Madrona Park provides the best opportunity to appreciate their unique design, the interplay of materials, and how Storey crafted individuality within a cohesive pair. You won't find bustling crowds here, just the quiet satisfaction of discovering architectural integrity.

An Unexpected Blend: The Christine Becker House's Elegant Fusion

Moving back to Portland, the Christine Becker House, completed in 1909, stands as a testament to architect Emil Schacht’s unique vision, diverging slightly from the purist Craftsman mold. This residence is a fascinating stylistic blend, incorporating elements of Dutch Colonial with the robust, honest materials of Craftsman. Its exterior features wood siding and massive columns supporting a distinctive gambrel-roofed porch extension—a gambrel roof, for the uninitiated, is a symmetrical two-sided roof with two slopes on each side, the lower slope being steeper. This design choice sets it apart immediately. Schacht's genius truly shines within. The entrance hall and living room feature the richest and most detailed wood paneling of any of his residential works. Original art glass panels throughout the home add a layer of exquisite craftsmanship and light play, elevating the interior beyond typical Craftsman simplicity. This house is historically significant not just for its beauty, but because it’s one of only two of Schacht’s residential designs known to have been published during his lifetime, appearing in *Northwest Architect* magazine in September 1910. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Becker House has been meticulously preserved and thoughtfully updated. Like many of these treasures, it’s a private home, but the Architectural Heritage Center periodically includes it on special tours for members and donors. If you’re serious about seeing the interiors of Portland’s finest, becoming a member of such organizations is often your best bet for these exclusive opportunities.

Ellsworth Storey's Eclectic Genius: The Phiscator Estate's Grand Statement

Concluding our journey in Seattle, we revisit Ellsworth Storey's work with the Phiscator Estate, built between 1907 and 1908 in the Mount Baker neighborhood. This home, located at 3311 Cascadia Avenue, offers yet another perspective on Storey's expansive architectural vocabulary. While many associate him purely with Arts and Crafts, the Phiscator Estate reveals his mastery of multiple stylistic influences, often blending them into a cohesive whole. Here, cedar shingles and local Pacific Northwest timber are still prominent, alongside stone and clinker brick foundations and chimneys, grounding the house firmly in its regional context. However, the interior of the Phiscator Estate surprises with its Georgian Revival styling, featuring classical detailing integrated seamlessly with Craftsman principles. This eclectic approach, which draws from chalet styles, Arts and Crafts, and even Prairie School influences, showcases Storey's flexibility and his ability to adapt grander, classical ideas to the more relaxed, naturalistic ethos of the Northwest. It challenges the simplified notion of "Craftsman" as a singular, rigid style. This grand Colonial Revival-influenced house remains a private residence, but its presence is a significant architectural landmark within the Mount Baker historic surveys. For the dedicated enthusiast, a drive through Mount Baker on a clear day offers not just stunning views of Lake Washington but also a chance to appreciate this remarkable example of Storey’s sophisticated stylistic blending. What these six structures, often hidden from casual view, truly reveal is the incredible depth and adaptability of the Pacific Northwest Craftsman style. From the vanished grandeur of the Hoo-Hoo House to the intimate scale of Storey's cottages, and from the nationally influenced Gilliland House to the stylistically adventurous Becker and Phiscator estates, each building tells a story. They underscore the importance of local materials, the ingenuity of their architects, and the enduring human desire for well-crafted, meaningful spaces. To truly appreciate them, you often need to adopt a "tourist of intention" mindset: researching addresses, understanding viewing limitations, and accepting that sometimes, the best view is from the sidewalk, pondering the craftsmanship within. These aren't just old houses; they are tangible narratives of a region's architectural coming-of-age, waiting to be discovered by those willing to look beyond the obvious.