There’s a certain magic to discovering a place you’ve only ever seen on screen, especially when that screen painted such a vivid, quirky portrait of small-town life. For fans of the beloved 1990s television series *Northern Exposure*, Roslyn, Washington, is a pilgrimage site, an unassuming town that stood in for the fictional Cicely, Alaska. At the heart of this cinematic transformation, quite literally, stands The Brick Saloon. But is it just a façade, a glorified photo opportunity for nostalgic fans, or does it hold a deeper, more compelling narrative?
My first visit to Roslyn, years ago, was driven by a vague curiosity about filming locations. I expected a quaint, perhaps overly commercialized, echo of Cicely. What I found, however, was a town that felt genuinely lived-in, and The Brick, in particular, transcended its television fame, revealing layers of history that predated its brief stint in the Hollywood spotlight by a full century. This isn't just a bar; it’s a living museum, a resilient landmark that has witnessed more local drama than any script could ever capture.
Stepping into Cicely, Alaska: More Than Just a TV Set?
The moment you turn onto West Pennsylvania Avenue, there it is: the unmistakable exterior of The Brick. For six seasons, from 1989 to 1995, this building served as the primary exterior filming location for Cicely’s beloved watering hole, the social nexus where Joel Fleischman, Maggie O'Connell, Chris Stevens, and the rest of the quirky ensemble gathered. Its brick facade, the simple signage, the general store next door—it all conjures an immediate, powerful sense of recognition for anyone who ever tuned in. You can almost hear Holling Vincoeur’s gruff voice or Marilyn Whirlwind’s succinct pronouncements.
Here’s the rub, though, and it's a common misconception that often disappoints the uninitiated: while the outside of The Brick is undeniably *the* Brick from *Northern Exposure*, the interior scenes you remember so fondly were actually shot on a sound stage in Redmond, Washington. That cozy, wood-paneled space with the famous moose head and the ever-present chess game? It was a meticulously crafted set. Knowing this upfront manages expectations significantly; you won't walk in and find a perfect replica of the TV show’s interior. Instead, you'll discover something else entirely: an authentic, historic saloon that simply *lent its face* to fame.
Beyond the Camera: Roslyn's Oldest Watering Hole and its Hidden Past
What makes The Brick truly remarkable isn't its television career, but its sheer tenacity. Opened in 1889 by Italian immigrants John Buffo and Peter Giovanni, this establishment has been in continuous operation since its founding, making it Washington's oldest continuously operating bar. Think about that for a moment: it has survived two World Wars, the Great Depression, Prohibition, and seismic shifts in American culture, all while serving drinks and fellowship. The current structure, which formally took the name "The Brick," was built in 1898 using 45,000 locally manufactured bricks, a testament to the boomtown spirit of Roslyn, then a thriving coal mining hub.
Its endurance speaks volumes about its place within the community. During the show’s production years, The Brick was already a local institution, a place where generations of Roslyn residents had gathered. While specific ownership details from 1989-1995 aren't readily available, the fact that the Najar family purchased it in 1997 highlights a common thread in historic establishments: a continuity of local ownership, keeping the spirit of the place alive. This isn't some corporate chain or a theme park; it’s a genuine piece of Americana, holding down the corner of West Pennsylvania Avenue for over 130 years.
A Bar's Soul: That Peculiar Spittoon and Prohibition's Hidden Passageways
Step inside, past the initial wave of *Northern Exposure* nostalgia, and you'll be confronted with some genuinely fascinating historical artifacts. The back bar itself, a stately piece of craftsmanship, is over a century old. It embarked on quite a journey to get to Roslyn, originating in England, then making its way across the Atlantic, around the treacherous waters of Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America—a perilous passage for sailing ships in the days before the Panama Canal—and finally landing in Portland, Oregon, before finding its permanent home here. This isn’t just furniture; it’s a transatlantic relic, a silent observer of history.
But the real showstopper, a feature that simply doesn't exist in modern bars, is the 23-foot running water spittoon. Yes, you read that correctly. Beneath the brass bar rail, a constant stream of water once flowed, carrying away the tobacco expectorations of miners and loggers from a bygone era. It's a rare, almost unbelievable piece of functional design, a stark reminder of the hygiene—or lack thereof—of working-class establishments in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It's no longer operational, of course, but it stands as an incredible historical curiosity that few places in the country can boast.
Perhaps even more intriguing are the whispers of its Prohibition-era operations. From 1920 to 1933, when the sale of alcohol was federally banned, The Brick, like many resourceful establishments, adapted. It officially operated as a "soda fountain" and café, a perfectly legitimate front. Yet, local lore and documented history suggest a more clandestine role. The bar reportedly had access to a network of prohibition tunnels that ran beneath the town, used for distributing illegal alcohol. Imagine the hushed exchanges, the clandestine deliveries, the thrill of skirting the law right beneath the noses of authorities. These tunnels, now mostly sealed or inaccessible, paint a vivid picture of a time when a simple drink was a defiant act.
What Was on the Menu at The Brick (and What You Can Expect Now)?
During its fictional life on *Northern Exposure*, The Brick was depicted as serving "simple, down-home grub – burgers, scrambled eggs, hash, chili." The show's writers, some with restaurant reviewer backgrounds, consciously leaned into this "heartland of America" genre of cooking. They understood that the food of Cicely needed to feel authentic to a remote Alaskan outpost – hearty, unpretentious, and comforting. However, if you're visiting with hopes of finding a specific "Joel's Burger" or "Chris in the Morning Hash" on the menu, you'll be out of luck. Historical records from the show's run don't detail specific menu prices or signature items that became popular with viewers, likely because the interior wasn't a real, functioning restaurant for the show.
Today, The Brick Saloon offers exactly what you'd expect from a historic, small-town bar: straightforward pub fare. Think classic burgers, sandwiches, and perhaps some fried appetizers. Don't arrive expecting a gourmet experience or a replication of fictional dishes. Instead, embrace the ambiance: grab a beer, order a simple meal, and soak in the history that surrounds you. The focus here is less on culinary innovation and more on providing a familiar, welcoming space, much like it has for well over a century. The prices will be typical for a casual eatery in a tourist-friendly small town, likely a bit more than a local diner but far less than a city bistro.
Is a Trip to Roslyn Worth Your Precious Time, or Just a Photo Op?
So, after all this, is a journey to Roslyn, Washington, and The Brick Saloon truly worthwhile? My unequivocal answer is yes, but with a crucial caveat: manage your expectations. If you go expecting to step directly into the world of *Northern Exposure*, you’ll inevitably find gaps between the show’s illusion and Roslyn’s reality. But if you approach it as an opportunity to connect with a genuine piece of American history, one that *also* happens to have a cool TV connection, then you’re in for a treat.
To make the most of your visit, consider planning your trip for a weekday, particularly outside of peak summer months (July and August). Roslyn is a small town, and on sunny summer weekends, especially during local festivals, it can become quite crowded with tourists, making parking a challenge and diminishing the quiet, contemplative atmosphere that makes places like this so charming. Arrive early in the day if you want to capture photos of The Brick's exterior without a throng of people, and be prepared for street parking, which can fill up quickly.
Don't just stop at The Brick. Wander Roslyn's streets; you'll recognize other buildings from the show, like the barber shop and Roslyn Cafe, which served as Ruth-Anne's General Store. But look beyond the TV facade. Explore the historic Roslyn Cemetery, a fascinating mosaic of over two dozen fraternal and ethnic sections, reflecting the town's diverse coal mining past. This context grounds The Brick’s story, transforming it from a mere prop into a vibrant thread in a much richer historical tapestry. The Brick isn’t a tourist trap if you understand its multifaceted identity; it’s a living monument to continuity, community, and the surprising resilience of a small-town bar that accidentally became a star.